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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.