Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
